QUICK CITY GUIDE : OAXACA
QUICK GUIDE TO OAXACA CITY, MX
“LET’S GO FOR A STROLL”
Templo de Santo Domingo de Gúzman // Beautiful barroque Church in the historic center
Zócalo // The classic plaza found in most Mexican city centers
Ex Convento de San Pablo // a 16th-century Dominican monastery converted into a gorgeous cultural complex (concerts, films, exhibitions, classes, conferences) focusing highly on promoting and preserving Oaxacan culture
Instituto de Artes Gráficas // founded by artist Francisco Toledo, hosts a collection of artwork from Latin America
Museo Textil de Oaxaca // Textile Museum, quaint, but nice if you have the extra time
Jardin Etnobotánico // exhibits hundreds of live plant species, all native to Oaxaca
“WHERE SHOULD WE EAT?”
BREAKFAST, LUNCH, NOTHING FANCY…
Boulenc // Best Bakery. Artisan Breads, Pastries, Coffee, and all sorts of Pickles & Ferments made locally by Suculenta
La Jícara Librespacio Cultural // Best Vegetarian (+ Bookshop and Antique Shop next door)
Cafe Brujula // A local coffee chain with decent coffee, I loved the terrace of this location for working on my laptop (has WiFi), and it’s right next to a lovely bookstore: Librería Grañen Porrua
VAMOS AL MERCADO!
THE MARKETS
El Pochote Organic Market // This is a westernized version of any truly authentic Mexican mercado. Still, my absolute go to breakfast on weekends! Lots of different stands… tamales, tacos, and HANDS DOWN the best tostadas anywhere (all the way at the back of this organic farmer’s market) Correct address: Calle Marcos Pérez #217. Weekends Only (Fri-Sun)
Central de Abastos // This is the real deal, lively, gritty market, where amongst all the commotion you’ll find everything from produce to fresh spices to plastic huaraches probably made in China. Keep an eye on your backpack/phone/wallet… I was told by locals that pickpocketing happens.
Mercado Benito Juárez // I prefer Central de Abastos, but this is a more approachable alternative for a quick trip.
WINE & DINE
- reservations recommended -
Casa Oaxaca // A must overall experience; great food, elegant yet subdued, gorgeous terrace view towards Santo Domingo Church
Origen // Refined yet entirely authentic Oaxacan Food. Can’t miss!
Criollo // Rustic, minimal, beautiful decor, and excellent food
“DO YOU HEAR THAT MUSIC?”
If you spend more than a day or two in Oaxaca, chances are you’ll bump into some cultural parade, known as “calendas”, which are a fundamental part of the local culture and festivities. So, get out there!
“IS YOUR STOMACH UP FOR STREET FOOD?”
A great place for some street food, if your gut can brave the adventure, is easily near and around the Zocalo at night. Take a walk and you’ll find a variety of carts to choose from.
“I THINK I HAD TOO MUCH MEZCAL LAST NIGHT…”
Cabuche // Casual Restaurant for home-y Mexican food, most notably for excellent Pozole…
POZOLE! I cannot go to Mexico without having at least a couple bowls of this classic Mexican soup - made with either pork, tripe, or chicken… (I choose chicken) and hominy (large white corn kernels), served with many accompanying garnishes to build as you wish: shaved lettuce, radishes, avocado, onion, dried oregano, chili, lime.
Nothing like some homemade broth to soothe a stomach or headache after a night of mezcal! ;)
“LET’S VENTURE OUT”
DAY TRIP
SAN AGUSTIN DE ETLA
Centro de las Artes de San Agustin – Less than 1 hour drive from Oaxaca City
In 2000, renown Mexican artist Francisco Toledo embarked on turning the aging and abandoned textile factory into a modern ecological center for the arts, featuring exhibitions and installations and arts education since it's opening in 2006.
While in San Agustin De Etla, you can visit a paper factory which still operates; making paper in the traditional way since the small community was founded in the late 1800s. Below, a slideshow of the items used in the process (natural plant fibers and dyes from various indigenous plants and geological materials) as well as one of the paper artisans showing the process:
STAY THE NIGHT
San Jose Del Pacifico
Rent a Car – 2.5 hour drive from Oaxaca City
Tucked away in the mountains of Mexico’s beautiful Oaxaca region, is the small town of San Jose del Pacifico. Yes, it is known as the magic mushroom capital of Mexico. Beyond this stereotype, there are a lot of interesting endeavors happening here... Amongst them, an oasis of a retreat nestled within a biodynamic farm: Refuggio Terraza de La Tierra
If you're looking to get away into the scenic mountains (for what is a very different experience from Oaxaca City) Refuggio Terraza de La Tierra may be your place! Fireplaces, hiking, healthy meals made with ingredients from the farm... pretty magical place. Can be a little chilly though - check weather and pack appropriately!